What Is 'Melanin-Safe' Skincare?
Now onto the skincare products. Melanin-safe typically means that melanin-rich skin was centered on when creating the product. While that sounds encouraging, it's not always that simple. Some companies may slap the label on there with the understanding that all skin types contain melanin, and because their product was approved by the FDA, their products are safe for topical use for melanin-rich skin along with skin types that are not.
Melanin-safe has a little bit more weight when it comes to treatments like laser treatments and acid peels. "The difference between melanin-safe treatment and non-melanin-safe treatments, in that regard, is that they're gentler so as to not cause inflammation, a big trigger for hyperpigmentation," cosmetic chemist Javon Ford told Refinery29. "As far as everyday skin-care, though, no — there isn't a difference." Additionally, skin treatments that are safe and inclusive for darker skin tones are made for specific issues, such as hyperpigmentation, tend to be effective.
Products that contain alpha and beta hydroxy acids, which serve as gentle exfoliants, moisturizers containing ceramides and hyaluronic acid, and hyperpigmentation treatments with azelaic and tranexamic acid are also good for melanin-rich skin. "Products for melanin-rich skin are typically formulated with melanocyte-inhibiting agents that help regulate melanin production to minimize excess pigmentation," New York-based dermatologist Dr. Carlos Charles told Byrdie. "They might also include ingredients that promote epidermal skin cell renewal to promote healthy skin and uniform tones."