What Your Face Oil Actually Does For Your Skin

The conversation surrounding face oils and hydration vs. moisture cannot be discussed without understanding certain key words – emollients, humectants, and occlusives. You've probably seen a combination of all or a few of these terms in skincare products you currently own. Emollients essentially act as skin-softeners, while occlusives trap in moisture that is already on your skin. Humectants — most commonly glycerin or hyaluronic acid — work by absorbing moisture from your environment and your skin to provide hydration. 

Face oils can lock in existing moisture (occlusive) and soften skin (emollient), but they cannot hydrate. As dermatologist Dr. Elizabeth Tanzi told The Cut, "They (face oils) put a sealant on your skin by coating the top layer. This is different from pulling in water and hydrating skin." So think of a visual of wrapping your face with cling film — face oils are actually doing only that. They're locking in existing moisture but they don't hydrate.  

In fact, according to New York City-based dermatologist and the founder of Entière Dermatology, Dr. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin (via Harper's Bazaar), " ... a lot of people who only use oils are actually really dehydrated or their skin barrier is compromised underneath all that application of oils." Does that mean you should give up oils altogether? No. But there is a proper way to use them.